Growing up in the Eastern Cape, becoming a clothing designer was not a prominent career path, but Yamkela Mahlelehlehle still dared to pursue it.

Her creative potential showed quite early through repurposing things she found in her childhood house. Her fondest moment is turning her mother’s bra into a bag. “I really thought I was into something,” says the designer.

Now aged 27 and living in Cape Town, Mahlelehlehle has been named the first 2024 designer for Pick n Pay Clothing’s Futurewear, an incubator programme dedicated to nurturing emerging fashion talent. It aims to launch the next generation of superstar designers by helping them create commercially viable, exclusive collections for the retailer. The programme also ensures customers have access to affordable, on-trend, locally-designed pieces.

In collaboration with the Pick n Pay team, she created a limited-edition collection under her label Maison KOTR titled Kolours of the Reignbow. “This bold blend of modern utility and artistic flair is designed for the contemporary woman who values both function and fashion,” says Mahlelehlehle.

The range includes tailored waistcoats, skorts, and relaxed pants with athleisure accents, all exuding a chic, utilitarian edge. A floaty dress adorned with pleated panels adds a touch of whimsy, creating a balanced and dynamic ensemble.

Mahlelehlehle’s passion for design and creation flourished naturally from a young age. “I’ve always been a designer - it is how I think, live and create - even though I grew up being taught that you went to school, got good grades and then went to varsity. Design was not something I was introduced to - although my mom loved fashion magazines – it came naturally to me, triggered by everyday life.  I would watch fashion shows on TV and make clothes using leftover fabric from my aunt. I am fascinated by fabric and creation and have always had the instinct to make something.”

She was scrolling on Instagram last year when she spotted a post calling for applications for Pick n Pay Clothing Futurewear, offering young designers the opportunity to receive guidance and practical training from the retailer and industry leaders, including renowned designer Gavin Rajah while designing a commercial range. “I’m an inquisitive person, so I completed the application, and that same week, before I heard that I’d been accepted, I quit my job because I felt it was time for a change. Believing in yourself can attract what’s meant for you.”

While studying or working, Mahlelehlehle always stayed connected to fashion, whether creating her own clothing and modelling, teaching disabled people to sew bags, or sewing patches onto jeans for a denimwear activation. “Being chosen for Futurewear feels like a culmination of nine years of dedication. It’s one of my greatest milestones.”

Futurewear, now in its fifth year, was conceptualised by Pick n Pay Clothing Executive Hazel Pillay and renowned designer Gavin Rajah to support local designers and production while giving them a platform to commercialise their creativity. “The programme evolves yearly, shaped by the applicants, trends, global influences, and our drive to innovate,” Pillay explained. “This year’s designers each bring something unique, and we’re confident our customers will love their work.”

Gavin Rajah highlighted Mahlelehlehle’s innovative blend of modern utility and artistic expression as a key factor in her selection. “Yamkela’s collection is designed for the contemporary woman who values function and fashion.”

The range’s standout feature is a distinctive print - a series of red organic shapes set against a stone backdrop. “This pattern encapsulates the essence of Maison KOTR’s innovative spirit, making each garment a narrative of boldness and creativity,” Rajah added.

Though initially hesitant about creating her first print, Mahlelehlehle found reassurance and support from Pick n Pay Clothing and her mentor Julia Buchanan, the first designer to launch a collection under the Futurewear programme in 2020. “The mentorship experience taught me how to balance my conceptual design approach with the practical needs of the retail market that enables a sell-out range. I’ve learned to trust the process and embrace feedback.”

And that bra-turned-handbag from her childhood? “I think my mom threw it away after I showed her,” she laughed. “But look at me now. Design is my calling, and I’m determined to keep pushing forward.”

“When I first came to Cape Town, I knew what I wanted to do but never imagined creating a collection with Pick n Pay Clothing. My work over the years has led to this opportunity, and I’m ready for whatever comes next. I’m building a legacy and excited to reach new heights locally and globally.”

The Yamkela x Pick n Pay Clothing will be available in 40 stores/and online (www.pnpclothing.co.za) on 27 August 2024.